You’ve brought home a new addition for your yard- now it’s time to plant it!
Follow these steps to ensure a long-lived, healthy tree or shrub.
Step 1: Make a Hole
The size of the hole should be about twice as wide as the root ball, but not any deeper. The wide area of loosened backfill will give roots a transitional zone to grow through as they adapt to our heavy clay soil. Digging the hole too deep will cause the plant to sink as the soil settles, so keep it level (or even a smidge high) to avoid water pooling around the base of the plant.
Step 2: Plant It!
Put your plant in the hole and position it so the main stem is upright and the soil line is level.
For trees, note the depth of the root flare and be sure not to bury it! The root flare is where the tree trunk meets the roots and tapers outward. Burying the root flare will eventually strangle the tree, leading to a decline or death in as little as 4-6 years.
Create a backfill mixture of at least 30:70 compost to soil. Compost will help break up clay soil and provide long-term nutrition for beneficial microbes. Fill in the hole around the plant and ensure there are no large pockets of air- these will eventually sink and leave the roots exposed.
Step 3: Water
Watering in your plant is crucial- don’t miss this step!
Your plant’s first watering should be deep and thorough to settle the soil and engage the roots. We recommend using a solution of Fertilome Root Stimulator to reduce transplant shock and kick-start early root growth!
Water every day for the first three days. Then, cut back to twice a week for two weeks.
After that, follow this seasonal watering schedule:
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- Spring and Fall: water once per week
- Summer: water up to twice per week
- Winter: water once every 3 weeks when ground is thawed and precipitation is scarce
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Of course, every planting situation is different! Soil health, mulch depth, sun exposure, and plant type can all affect watering needs. When in doubt, feel the soil! Dig down a couple inches to check for moisture.
How much water does my plant need? For young plants, use at least as many gallons as the pot the plant was grown in. For example, a 3 gallon shrub should get at least 3-5 gallons of water each time you water it.
Water slowly so that it seeps deep into the soil, rather than spreading across the surface where it will evaporate quickly. Heavy, periodic watering will establish a deep root system that can withstand longer dry spells and ultimately make less work for you!
Soaker hoses and drip irrigation can help keep larger trees and landscapes hydrated. A 5-gallon bucket with a couple small holes drilled in the bottom will allow you to water an individual plant slowly.
Step 4: Mulch
Add a 2-3” layer of wood or leaf mulch around the plant to help retain moisture, keep the soil cool, and provide the soil with nutrients as it breaks down. Mulch will also keep grass and weeds at bay, therefore minimizing the risk injury from lawn mowers and weed eaters.
Mulch should never be mounded against the trunk, as it traps moisture and promotes disease and abnormal root growth. This is commonly referred to as a mulch volcano. Instead, aim for a “donut” of mulch that is thick in the center and thinner at the edges.
Ideally, mulch coverage should extend to the outermost tips of the tree or shrub. This is the dripline, where the plant’s feeder roots are concentrated. Keeping the dripline mulched ensures that the plant is able to absorb water and nutrients effectively and maintain a sturdy root system.
Too much of a good thing: adding a too-thick layer of mulch can actually cause more harm than good! Avoid mulching deeper than 4 inches near plants, as it can deprive the roots of oxygen.
Step 5: Stake Your Tree (if necessary!)
When planting a tree, the root ball is often very small in comparison to the tree’s height and canopy. A small root ball paired with loose soil can lead to the tree toppling in the wind, so additional support may be necessary until the tree has an established root system!
Follow these steps to stake your tree:
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- Remove temporary staking materials already on your tree, such as bamboo poles and ties.
- Drive stakes into the soil just outside the root ball. Make sure they’re sturdy!
- Tie the tree ⅓ to halfway up the trunk. Leave enough room for the tree’s canopy to flex about 6 inches in any direction to avoid snapping in high winds.
- Attach the tree to the stakes with a broad, soft, flexible material in a loop that doesn’t girdle the trunk. Nylon stockings and rubber hosing are commonly used. Avoid bare wire or rope, as they will damage the tree!
- A healthy tree should be strong enough to stand on its own after a year. Remove the ties and gently push the trunk to check for root ball movement before removing stakes. If the root ball still moves, continue providing support and re-check after each growing season.
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When is a Good Time to Plant?
Most trees and shrubs can be planted any time that the ground is not frozen, but there are some exceptions!
We don’t recommend planting these after October 1 in central Missouri:
- Redbud
- Dogwood
- Birch
- Japanese Maple
- Holly
- Azalea and Rhododendron
- Crape Myrtle
- Abelia and Nandina
- Butterfly Bush
- Roses
- Ornamental Grasses
- Small root balls, such as quart or gallon-size perennials